Stop Sealing BUTCHER BLOCK With BEESWAX... Do THIS Instead
Long-form18:50People & Blogs
Published Oct 8, 2026, 11:49 PM · 5d ago
Elias Yoder
367K subscribers · median 7.4K views
AI avatar · likely$Likely
Views
6,355
+3 views/hour
Likes
139
2.2% of views
Comments
14
0.22% of views
Checked every 3 h while the video is this age · last check 1h ago · next in 101 min. YouTube itself updates public counts with a short delay.
Views / hour now
3
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Peak views / hour
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Avg views / day
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First 24 hours
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Rank in channel
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Description
🔗 Save $6,000 A Year with My Complete Amish Home-Saving Method I teach:
https://eliasyoder.com
Somebody set a cold glass of water down on your butcher block counter and walked away.
And now there is a ring there. A pale cloudy circle, or worse a dark one, sitting in the middle of a counter you paid for and sanded and oiled yourself. And last month it was beet juice, and that went purple and stayed purple, and no amount of scrubbing took it out.
So you have got to the point where you flinch a little every time somebody cooks in your own kitchen.
I want to start this one by correcting myself. I made a video on this channel about beeswax and oil polish, and in it I said that mixture was right for a cutting board, a bowl, a spoon and a butcher block counter. Three of those four were correct. The counter was not.
Beeswax and mineral oil is not a bad finish. It is the right finish for a board. It is the wrong finish for a counter, and the reason is simple enough that once you see it you will not forget it.
A board goes to the sink. You scrub it, you dry it, you rub more oil in, and the finish being soft and renewable is the entire point of it. A counter cannot go to the sink. It stands there and takes a hot pan and a cold glass and a spill nobody noticed until morning.
My grandmother gave me the care of two wooden things in her kitchen when I was about twelve. A bread board she carried to the sink, and the long work table top that had never moved in anybody's memory. I did both with the same tin and the same rag, because I thought wood was wood. The board was still good when she died. The table top went grey through the middle and held the mark of every cup anybody set on it.
She said it like it was obvious. A board you can lift wants oil. A top you cannot lift wants sealing.
What we go through:
Three ways to find out what finish is on your counter right now Why mineral oil lets water straight past it, and what curing actually means Why a can marked TUNG OIL FINISH often contains no tung oil at all What the label has to say instead, and what disqualifies a can on sight Why pure tung oil is too thick on its own and what cutting it fifty fifty does What it costs: a twenty dollar pint does an island or one run of counter, and lasts years Why tung oil will not go over an existing mineral oil or wax finish Why 150 grit is as fine as you should ever sand, and what happens when you go finer The thirty-minute wipe-off nobody does, and why skipping it makes a finish go sticky The thirty-day cure, and using your kitchen lightly through it Refinishing one worn patch instead of a whole top The once-a-year twenty-minute habit that means never sanding again End grain and the sink cutout, and why the underside gets finished too
The warnings, and the first one is serious. Tung oil is a drying oil, so the rags can catch fire on their own, hours after you have finished and gone to bed. Spread them flat outside until stiff or drown them in a lidded metal can. Never leave them in a heap and never in the kitchen bin. Second, tung oil comes from a nut, and if there is a tree nut allergy in your house I would not take the chance on a surface food sits on. Third, the citrus solvent is orange peel oil and natural does not mean harmless. It is flammable and it wants a window open.
The plain limits: this is not a plastic coating. You still cannot leave a water bottle standing on it overnight. It will not stop knife marks, it does nothing about heat so use trivets, and it will not undo a black stain that already went into the wood. What you have bought is time and tolerance, not immunity.
There is no scheme in any of it, though the shelf is worth noticing. A tube of wax and mineral oil is cheap and you buy it again every year. A quart of pure tung oil costs more and you buy it twice a decade.
Tell me in the comments what finish is on your counters right now. And if you are new here, tell me what your kitchen counters are made of as well, wood or stone or laminate.
Next time I want to go to the other end of the house and see to the handles. An axe, a scythe, a hammer gone loose in the head, because a handle is wood too and it dies of the same thing.
I gathered the whole of it into a book at eliasyoder dot com.
The people who built this country with their hands knew that, and we are only just starting to remember it.
#EliasYoder #ButcherBlock #TungOil #Woodworking #KitchenCounters #WoodFinishing #Homesteading #DIY #FoodSafeFinish #Beeswax #MineralOil #OldWays #SelfReliance #HomeRepair #Countertops
Tags
butcher block countertophow to seal butcher blocktung oil butcher blockpure tung oiltung oil finish not tung oilbest oil for butcher blockbeeswax vs tung oilmineral oil butcher blockfood safe wood finishrefinish butcher blockcitrus solventwater rings wood countersanding butcher block150 gritoily rag firewood countertop carekitchen counterswoodworkinghomesteadingold waysself relianceamishElias Yoder
Details
- Published
- Oct 8, 2026, 11:49 PM
- Length
- 18:50 (1,130 s)
- Format
- Long-form
- Category
- People & Blogs
- Audio language
- EN
- Quality
- HD
- Captions
- No
- Made for kids
- No
- Licensed content
- Yes
- Video ID
- MuJY5Mmcofw
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